Laffitte-Teston Ch. Lafite-Rothschild Ch. Lafon-Rochet Ch. Lalande-Borie Ch. Lamothe Ch. Langoa-Barton Ch. Lascombes Ch. Latour Ch. Latour-Martillac Ch. Le Bon Pasteur Ch. Le Gardera Ch. Le Gay Ch. Le Moulin Ch.
Le Noble Ch. Le Payral Ch. Le Puy Ch. Les Barraillots Ch. Les Ormes-de-Pez Ch. Lynch-Bages Ch. Malescot St. Margaux Ch. Massereau Ch. Meyney Ch. Milon Ch. Montelena Ch. Montrose Ch. Moulin de la Roquille Ch. Moulin de Launay Ch. Moulin de Tricot Ch. Musar Ch. Nenin Ch. Pajzos Ch. Palmer Ch. Pavie-Macquin Ch. Pichon Lalande Ch.
Pichon-Baron Ch. Pontet Reynaud Ch. Pontet-Canet Ch. Potensac Ch. Pradeaux Ch. Puech Redon Ch. Quinault L'Enclos Ch. Quintus Ch. Sainte-Marie Ch. Siaurac Ch. Simard Ch. Simone Ch. Smith Haut Lafitte Ch. Pierre Ch. Taillefer Ch.
Tassin Ch. Tour des Gendres Ch. Trapaud Ch. Trinquevedel Ch. Tronquoy Lalande Ch. Vieux Maillet Ch. Vieux Taillefer Ch. Yon Lavallade Ch. Henriet-Bazin D. Andre Kientzler Dom. Aux Moines Dom. Badoz Dom. Baron Thenard Dom. Bart Dom. Bersan Dom. Berthet-Bondet Dom. Bois de Boursan Dom. Chamonard Dom. Chante Cigale Dom. Chasselay Dom. Chevrot Dom. Clos de la Bonnette Dom. Collotte Dom. De l'R Dom. De la Bastide Dom. De la Louvetrie Dom.
De la Tour du Bon Dom. De la Voute des Crozes Dom. Des Billards Dom. Didier Dagueneau Dom. Du Bagnol Dom. Du Bel Air Dom. Du Castel Dom. Du Closel Dom. Du Cros Dom. Du Grapillon d'Or Dom.
Du Jaugaret Dom. Dupasquier Dom. Duseigneur Dom. Economou Dom. Faury Dom. Gauby Dom. Glinavos Dom. Goisot Dom. Hauvette Dom. Ilarria Dom. Jean-David Dom. Joliet Dom. Joseph Voillot Dom. Kox Dom. La Colombe Dom. La Grange Tiphaine Dom. Lassarat Dom. Le Sang des Cailloux Dom.
Leflaive Dom. Leon Boesch Dom. Les Serrals Dom. Macle Dom. Maestracci Dom. Marcel Deiss Dom. Mardon Dom. Matassa Dom. Mathias Dom. Maurice Schoech Dom. Mercouri Dom. Michelot Dom. Montmartel Dom. Naddef Dom. Pernot Belicard Dom. Petitot Dom. Pinelli Dom. Prudhon Dom. Rimbert Dom. Roulot Dom. Saint Prefert Dom. Serene Dom. Serge Dagueneau et Filles Dom. Sigalas Dom. Simon Bize et Fils Dom. Skouras Dom. Spiropolous Dom. Tempier Dom.
Trapet Dom. Vico Dom. Vincent Paris Dom. Heger Dr. Konstantin Frank Dr. A server arrived, and from an immense teakettle poured streams of tej into our beakers. Made from fermented honey and given a slightly tannic hit with the addition of a leaf known locally as gesho , tej looks and tastes like orange juice.
I fell into conversation with Wasyehune, a year-old painter whose youth and sober state made him stand out almost as much as I did.
I asked him why he opted to drink tej rather than beer or whiskey. We are drinking history! While we spoke, a child vendor squeezed by hawking samosas from a vast bowl. A man rattled a tin can filled with numbered chips: a lottery. A vendor sold boiled nuts served on scraps of recycled paper.
The server continued to make his rounds, pouring from the teakettle without spilling a drop while mentally cataloguing how many beakers had been served — an utterly astounding feat given the number of drinkers and the chaos. A woman — the only one there — took Birhanu aside and told him to be careful: This is where pickpockets come to drink.
Yohannes, another drinker, approached us. Two beakers in, feeling the buzz and succumbing to a very strong desire to record the scene, I pulled out my camera.
Almost immediately, men were shaking their heads disapprovingly and asking Birhanu if we had been given permission to photograph in the tej bet we had.
At the same time, some of the more drunk men asked me to take their photos. I crossed the room to do this, and those in the periphery of the photos ran to Birhanu to angrily request compensation. We had officially reached that minuscule window of sloppy, inebriated conviviality that can quickly and inexplicably turn to belligerence. Birhanu was palpably anxious, and pressing small bills into open palms, indicated to me that we needed to leave. The town is known to the outside world for its ancient churches, carved out of stone.
But among Ethiopians it might be just as famous for its traditional tej bet. With the help of Memekia, another guide and a native of the town, I was taken to Berkay Tej Bet, a relatively modern structure, painted pink, on a hill overlooking Lalibela. As is usually the case with tej bet , Berkay, the eponymous owner, made her own tej in-house, and was kind enough to show me how this was done. Then later, I opened my own place. At this point, the mix is only slightly fermented, and she adds the gesho , known in English as shiny-leaf buckthorn, which she claimed both gives the mix a tart flavor and kicks the fermentation into overdrive.
After another month, the tej is sufficiently boozy and is strained into the ubiquitous teakettles.
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